December 3, 2021

Effective pigment removal is a core skill for a PM specialist

85% of the clients who come to my beauty centre have already had permanent make-up done. In the vast majority of cases, without removing the old work, it is not possible to make new permanent make-up in the same place, transparent and aesthetic, and in line with current trends. This is the situation that almost all specialists face now. So if you do not know how to remove permanent make-up, you will simply lose most potential clients.

Victoria Tomashivskaya
Victoria Tomashivskaya, founder of Yourwings brand, international trainer-expert in permanent make-up, dermopigmentation and chemical removal, lecturer of certified cosmetology courses for doctors from SPIC and Acad. Pavlov.

– Why is removal so often necessary?

– There are actually many reasons. Firstly, the permanent make-up industry is now about 30 years old. During this time a lot of devices, methods and pigments have changed and now they do not look very actual. Women have always wanted to look young and well-groomed. And outdated permanent make-up is often a definite marker of age.

– Secondly, permanent make-up is often distorted after plastic surgery and does not match the new look.

– Thirdly, the level of permanent make-up varies from the beginning. There always has been and always will be ugly work. And they need to be corrected.

– What are the most frequent requests from clients?

– One of the most common cases is blue-grey eyebrows or arrows.They don’t suit absolutely anyone.Alas, this is an inevitability if permanent make-up has been done with tattoo pigment. Pure black is seldom used in permanent make-up today, but it used to be very common. We struggle with the consequences of this fashion every day. Often, permanent lip make-up that extends far beyond the natural contours of the lips needs to be removed. This method of “enhancing” the lips was widely used before the advent of hyaluronic fillers. There is an enormous amount of such work, and only an alkaline remouver can remove it properly.

– Clients regularly come in for the correction of arrows that are distorted in shape, length and width after blepharoplasty. Even if they looked aesthetically beautiful before the operation, they always get distorted after the operation, don’t match the shape of the eye anymore and are no longer pleasing. The good news is that practically everything can be corrected. Each case requires an individual approach and the choice of the right removal technique.

– What removal methods are available?

– There are only 3 ways to correct permanent make-up: overlapping, laser and chemical removal.

  1. Overlapping is not really relevant at the moment, because with multiple repetitions of permanent make-up or tattooing in the same place, and not even with the highest quality pigments, the job can no longer be as easy and transparent as current trends demand. Moreover, it is always a temporary solution. Colours introduced 5, 10 or 20 years ago will still show up.
  2. Laser removal has undeniable advantages. Low traumatism, high speed of the removal procedure. But at the moment we are faced with the fact that not all colours can be removed by laser. Very often laser removal results in colour inversion, and instead of one problem in the form of incorrect eyebrow shape the client receives a second one – incorrect colour, which often cannot be further influenced by the laser. Organic pigments, which have spread about 5 years ago, almost always show an inversion, making the laser removal procedure little predictable. In addition, the laser does not remove white and solid colours, which are often used, for example, to camouflage scars or to cover old permanent make-up. You can have 3, 5 or more treatments and all to no avail.
  3. One type of advanced, technologically advanced new removal is chemical removal. It too can be quite different: acidic, alkaline. Unfortunately, due to a lack of awareness, there’s a great deal of rumour and confusion surrounding the subject of chemical removal.

– But in professional hands the technology can work wonders. Let’s break it down.

– To begin with, it is necessary to understand the principle of action of alkaline and acidic removers in order to be able to predict how much pigment can be removed from the skin. It is the difference in the principles of action on the skin that determines the effectiveness of the removers when removing permanent make-up. Thus, acidic removers act more superficially, which increases the overall duration of removal.

– As a rule, all pigments that one wants to remove from the skin are relatively deeply embedded because the permanent make-up has not been done professionally to one degree or another. “Only an alkaline remover can remove the pigment. The experience I have gained from removing a huge number of different irregularities allows me to state that it is possible to deal with the most difficult cases with alkaline removers. The difficulty lies in maintaining the integrity and health of the skin itself while removing the pigment.

– Do you use the alkaline removal method?

– Yes, I have invested a lot of effort in researching and developing this method. My daily work with desperate clients who have not been helped by other specialists has led me to develop my own innovative alkaline remover, which with a very high index of effectiveness is safe even for people with sensitive skin. I can finally be sure of a result, even when laser and other chemical removers do not have the desired effect, and I’m pleased with the benefits that my method gives me:

  • Removal of inorganic, organic, permanent and tattoo pigments regardless of the size of the pigment particles;
  • equally high efficiency in all pigment colours, including white, flesh colour;
  • recovery period without crusts and scarring;
  • possibility of working with scar tissue;
  • visible results after the first procedure;
  • small number of procedures for removal;
  • comfort for the client and affordable cost.

– Can you always guarantee results?

– I always say that the most beautiful work comes out of the interaction between a cosmetic dermatologist and a permanent make-up specialist. This applies to permanent make-up, scar camouflage and removal.Perfect skin is almost impossible to find, every case is different. But it is thanks to the combined use of chemical removal and cosmetic procedures that we are able to work effectively even on vascular and scarred skin, increasing its potential and leaving the possibility not only to remove the pigment without loss of skin quality, but also, if desired, to make a beautiful permanent make-up on this spot in the future.

Удаление татуажа губ Removerом Yourwings
Удаление татуажа век Removerом Yourwings
Удаление татуажа бровей Removerом Yourwings

– Does the technology require special training?

– It is a must! What’s more, the remover is not sold without training. The technique only appears simple at first glance. Impressive results can only be achieved with experience, in-depth theoretical knowledge and practical skills. Reckless manipulation of the remover can lead to the formation of hypertrophic scars. However, professionalism is required for any procedure – both in permanent make-up and other removal methods.

– Is it possible to create permanent make-up that will not have to be removed?

– Of course. No matter how gentle the method of removal is, it is still a trauma to the skin. That is why the basic rule that I adhere to in my work is to do permanent make-up that will look current and aesthetic regardless of the time. And the most important thing is the pigments that are used in the job. I only use and recommend to others specialist permanent make-up pigments that darken in proportion over time and allow me to create transparent, lightweight work that emphasises natural beauty in a few years’ time in the same area. The motto of my Yourwings brand is to be timeless. And I heartily wish all professionals the most beautiful future for your work.


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